Hold the 18-course dinners: Noma’s chef opens up a burger joint

Hold the 18-course dinners: Noma’s chef opens up a burger joint

It is one of the best restaurants in the world, known for its 18-course tasting menus costing north of £300 per person and for spawning a culinary movement based on foraging for ingredients.

Now the two Michelin-starred Copenhagen restaurant Noma, run by feted chef René Redzepi, is preparing to open the doors of a new venture: a burger-and-chips joint.

The move is born out of the devastation caused by Covid-19 as it has swept through the global hospitality industry, leaving closures and ruined lives in its wake. Among the casualties was Restaurant 108, Noma’s sister venture, which closed in September causing industry observers to conclude no business was safe.

Noma’s new incarnation will be simpler, humbler and cheaper – but with the same organic ingredients, creative techniques and attention to detail that have entranced gastronomes for the past 17 years. “It’s a pretty huge change, and a big moment for me,” Redzepi told the Observer.

The burger joint, POPL, from the Latin word “populus” meaning people, will open on 3 December after a temporary pop-up during the summer attracted long queues for its beef and veggie burgers.

Making burgers is a ‘pretty huge change’ for chef René Redzepi. Photograph: Ditte Isager

Instead of requiring prepaid reservations for months in advance, POPL will be open for walk-ins and takeaways. Rather than an ambitious tasting menu – including mahogany clam decorated with seaweed fronds and salt-preserved unripe gooseberries – it will offer beef, veggie and vegan burgers, chips and a few sides.…

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